[Chiapas] Coca-Cola's Raid on a Sacred Mountain

Huitepec, the Mayan Hill of Water
Coca-Cola's Raid on a Sacred Mountain

By JOHN ROSS

Huitepe Mountain, Chiapas.

http://www.counterpunch.org/ross09072007.html

Thrust like a huge furry green thumb into the big Chiapas sky above San Cristobal de las Casas, the jewel-box capital of the Mayan highlands ("Los Altos"), Huitepec mountain, "el cerro de agua" ("hill of water"), contrasts sharply with the logged-out, bald-pated hills that line the Valley of Jovel.

As the source of water for San Cristobal and the neighboring municipality of Zinacantan plus dozens of Zapatista rebel communities nestled in the valleys of Los Altos, Huitepec is both revered by the highland Maya as a sacred site, and besieged by national and transnational capital seeking to suck the Hill of Water dry.

Huitepec, with its lush oak forests (unlike surrounding mountains where pines predominate), wild orchids and bromeliads, songbirds and small game animal population, is an inviting habitat for the transnational tourist and real estate interests who wield the political clout down in San Cristobal. Forcing native Tzotzil villages to sell off communal land to developers, the lower slopes of the sacred cerro have been invaded by the luxury homes of prominent politicos, ex-municipal presidents, and an increasing number of well-heeled foreigners.

Meanwhile, a privatized state nature reserve attracts busloads of careless tourists and wood poachers pick incessantly at the oak forests. But the prize up on the Hill of Water is the water itself.

Riding the ridge between San Cristobal and Zinacantan, Huitepec's water wealth is drained off to feed expanding urban needs in the big city below. Foreign-owned greenhouses in Zinacantan that grow flowers for the global market drink up much Huitepec water. But the great predator here is the Coca Cola plant operated by Mexican bottler Femsa that sprawls at the foot of Huitepec Mountain like a temple to consumer greed.

"Coca Cola is a hydration company - without water we have no business," an in-house document " Our Use of Water" unearthed by the NGO War on Want, bluntly states. Chiapas, the source of 65% of southern Mexico's water, figures prominently in Coca's plans. To underscore its mission, Coca-Femsa has obtained a 20 year concession from the city of San Cristobal, which claims jurisdiction over Huitepec water, to siphon off five liters a second of the precious fluid for the next generation, for the manufacture of its noxious brew and the commercialization of bottled water whose plastic husks have become the most littered item on Planet Earth.

San Cristobal's claim to ownership of Huitepec water is contested by the Tzotzil Maya in neighboring villages. Indeed, under the provisions of the International Labor Organization's Resolution 169 (OIT 169 by its Spanish initials), the legal benchmark for what defines Indian territory (habitat) and territoriality (what goes on in that territory), Huitepec is the collective property of the people who live on this land.

Last March 13th, under the aegius of the Zapatista administrative center ("caracol") in nearby Oventik and its Junta de Buen Gobierno (Good Government Committee), the rebels declared Huitepec a "Zapatista Ecological Community Reserve" and set up a camp near the summit of the Hill of Water. "We do not defend Huitepec for the mal gobierno ("bad government") but for our grandchildren" the ski-masked members of the Junta declared, "fighting for our mother the earth and all of the living beings and natural resources is to defend our lives and our communities against the capitalist system."

A tattered banner announcing the location of a "Peace Camp" (actually two - one for non-Zapatistas and the other manned and womanned by rebels) signals the turn-off to the community reserve. Up a muddy track straddling the mountain ridge, the Zapatistas and their supporters fight to save the sacred Hill of Water. The rebels now patrol the forests to prevent the "talamontes" (wood poachers) from cutting the thick oak forests. Other crews work on stream restoration. Volunteers from Zapatista communities throughout Los Altos come to live in the camps and learn conservation skills that they take back to their own villages.

"I am here to defend Huitepec" one camper told La Jornada correspondent Hermann Bellinghausen. "This is my place. My father, who is 80, was born here. My grandparents too. These hills are all we have to leave to our children." Bellinghausen found the response a clear "expression of the primordial, collective, and sacred right to this mountain" the neo-liberals falsely claim is theirs.

The neo-liberal icon that sucks up Huitepec's bountiful water, the Coca Cola Corporation of Atlanta Georgia, is a powerful political player in Mexico - former president Vicente Fox was president of Coca-Mexico before he became president of Mexico. Mexicans drink more Coke per capita than any other nation on earth and Chiapas and its Indians are an important market. One reason for heavy sales in Los Altos: Coca Cola is often the only option to scarce or undrinkable local water.

Driving through the highlands, one is inevitably slowed to a crawl following double trailers of La Coca groaning up the steep mountain roads. Coke has put a full court press on the Tzotziles of Los Altos, offering discounts (two pesos a can that sells for five in San Cristobal stores) and deals - 50 Coke tab tops can be traded for a kilo of beans. The Coca Cola Foundation to which Fox remains heavily connected hooplas its plans for reforestation and boasts of building schools in Indian villages. Although some communities endorse a boycott advocated by noted intellectuals and artists like actress Ofelia Medina, and keep the Coke trucks away, opting instead for Pozol, a native Indian corn drink, Coke is still king in the highlands of Chiapas.

Ironically, despite the Zapatistas' efforts to defend Huitepec hill from the depredations of demon Coke, the rebels are some of La Coca's biggest boosters. Although drugs and alcohol are permanently barred from the rebel zone, Coca Cola, a beverage concocted in 1893 by a drug-crazed pharmacist, is the Zapatistas' drug of choice. Because the use of "posh" (sugar cane "white lightning") is prohibited, Coke is substituted during religious ceremonies, apparently with God's blessing. The Che Guevara community store in Oventik, displays rows of the familiar red cans. At a cultural forum "in defense of humanity and against neo-liberalism" during the Zapatistas' 1996 Intergalactica, each speaker was seated with a can of this neo-liberal cola at the ready.

Criticism of the rebels' fondness for La Coca irks their loquacious mouthpiece Subcomandante Marcos who lashed out at the anti-Cokers during a July forum at San Cristobal's University of the Earth for trivializing the Zapatista struggle by reducing it to a debate over a corporate logo.

Ambar Past is an expatriate North American poet who has lived for years in a tree house in San Cristobal from which each morning she watches Huitepec emerge from the mountain mists. Recently, she wrote a letter/poem to the "Senor Owner of Coca Cola" whose words formed the curvaceous figure of the classic Coke bottle. "Under the sacred mountain/Huitepec/ we guard water/ for our grandchildren/and your grandchildren too.

"Money washes the brains ("coco")/ of Coca Cola/ drinker-upper of our inheritance/ that would make us into a desert.

"Huitepec/ blood of our future/born in the hollow/of a leaf/ where your vampires/ open a hole in our hearts."

John Ross is in Mexico City, plotting a new novella. If you have further information contact johnross@igc.org

Skidegate's Potlatch Holds Title to Huitepec Water

johnross@igc.org

Skidegate appreciates your article on social issues in Mexico, and encourages continued prayer joining Infinity into one Heart. The short loop of water to tankers to cans depicts the global dilemma of the Rich getting richer while the poor get thirsty. Here in Canada the cycle is the same but less obvious, more devious, and the Colonial masters have had to enlist more Indians within the Fort to offset our legal rights. You remind Skidegate how short time is, and to increase efforts on all fronts. We cannot just depend on ad hoc occupations and street marches to save the planet, but need a master stroke of Constitutional genius that could only have come from Heaven, and so Skidegate is honourbound introducing Potlatch as the most Ecological and equitable solution available to resolve these identity crises, which is what they will continue to be until Humankind learns a new Religion. We invite others to join a planned response to the Church & Culture of Western Paternalism, targetting the 8.8.08. Beijing and 2010 Vancouver/Whistler Olympics, not to interfere with the Games but to take Leadership of the Planet by elevating the ceremonies and festivities back to the original spirit involved in such gatherings. Potlatch integrates emotions and energies that the Church and State have to separate in order to conceal the inherent inconsistencies and injustices of institutional corporations. Games like the Olympics are elitist like leaders behind razorwire, when they should really serve as examples of how to identify with people and with culture in positive terms.

Potlatch declares that life itself is the intermediary of Spirit and there is no need of Priests or Kings, but every need for Mothers and Children, the sacred Vestures of Eternity. The fundamental Proposition of the Church/Temple/Mosque Patriarchy translates into the belief system supported by the Judiciary and the Militia and Police. The Corporate Identity expresses as the State but the moral belief structure of Officers of the State differs from that held by the poor; the Church and the Flocks need water but want Cola. The Poor, as a constituency, hold higher claim to rights but being unorganized and unlettered, are forever thwarted by the Institutional processes that safeguard the State; one always needs to use the State to overturn itself, and now that Potlatch has overcome the Church, Skidegate Village globalizes all human identities into a new Soul Title oriented to Potlatch. The State and Church are already under assault from within the Religious and Indigenous and from the Ecological constructs beginning to drive world feelings just at the particular moment when some of the Indians of Canada are negotiating settlement of Abuses done when they were Indian children and other Parties of Indians are reaching terms of Treaty with the Colony. The irony eludes those who believe they are engaging Indigenous and Modern nations in some super-business achievement by holding hands with the Abusers, as the Reschool Survivors collect and pay for the costs of conquest. Skidegate differs and Potlatch proves sovereign in Global ecology, Constitutional in Canada.

Jesus' speeches are Buddhist teachings applied by Monks that made Communities give aid to the poor. Potlatch operates on similar principles, bringing the rich into proximity with the poor where resources are claimed and recognized as owned by specific Titled Heirs, who openly distribute their surplus wealth. Skidegate's Potlatch lost sovereignty because the Church and Colony undermined the Indigenous mythology at the same time as they monopolized external trading. The Natural Ecology was shattered when the extended family members had no choice but to work for the Church, the Fort, or some other boss. Skidegate missed the free opportunity to compete with the Church and with the Colony on the basis of beliefs belonging to Potlatch, that survive today, but since Skidegate was also denied the Fruits of Potlatch by legislation: the Church itself is owed to the Victor, Skidegate being recognized as Sovereign. Potlatch stands for the ecological Protocols employed by tribes to convey authority to the heirs of the rights in the system.

Christianity imposed their version of the global story and successfully enforced more specific claims to the native lands, at times when Priests were more helpful to some Natives [Herod] but the military persecuted others [Jesus & Geronimo], demonstrating that physical domination by a minority with superior technology is practical as long as the Government is able to 'grow'. The more Global ecology of the Imperial state forces its Officers to extract wealth from the local commons, leaving it to the Church and Law courts to absorb local injustices by interpreting Heaven and Earth eventualy according to Coca-Cola. This is the situation worldwide, the ecology of the Huitepec is Skidegate's ecology as Skidegate's Canoe nears Vancouver; occupying their land applies friction and must continue but global strategy is called for to counter the Dominant Minority. Trotsky split from Lenin on the need to pursue a Global agenda through an 'International,' independent of Nation State Power, for the same reason Indians must unite and must compete at the State level. The Internet opens the Global International. The cold war neutralized the Church but the States have managed to substitute Nationalism driven by global capitalism, as the global religion, purporting to govern the Planet from behind razorwire. Potlatch corrects the Church with two Stories, the story of the Ark and the truth about Jesus' Name. Potlatch is the specific Imperial claim of the Empress of Skidegate in the Titles of XziXzia, Suong Linga, Kos Andl'Ins, and her heirs, to the World, to the Village, and to the Canoe. The Ark is the Independent Individual.

The Indigenous Poor and alienated middleclass are the majority, with elitist dominant Minorities in control of the Military, dictating the use of land. Potlatch challenges the western Church Idea of their Titles to the world, demanding recognition and affirmation of Skidegate as Global Sovereign on grounds of Potlatch being of superior utility. International systems must be brought under a unified and centralized control under one institutional organ proceeding globally. The Internet allows global communication but there is no Idea or Identity able to attract enough interest in, or to organize, the necessary radical actions, short of the Potlatch succeeding where the divided Church and state have failed. Potlatch provides both the new idea and Identity paradigm needed to moderate Humankind to the Planet. Google Skidegate and Potlatch and see how both terms are Aboriginal; Potlatch was legislated against but recovered in commercial forms that provide existing profile for the Ideology of Skidegate, and of Skidegate Village, but lack authority for Potlatch. These Icons have fair moral standing to denounce the Church and accuse its Colonial extensions of breaching Skidegate's Constitutional Rights, refusing to recognize and affirm Skidegate's Title, and of breaching Law by attacking the Institution of Potlatch and attacking Skidegate personally in order to further the Colony, for the purpose of delaying the Rightful Empire.

Government is already centralized around the Internet but the key to Planetary Government is the story, Skidegate's story. The authority of World Government is based on Skidegate's Aboriginal Title in Canada, 'recognized and affirmed' in Section 35 of the Constitution [1982], building unity through the Potlatch that was outlawed from 1885 to 1951; the Churches and the Governments are trying to settle admitted abuses to children in Reschools, but Skidegate says the damage done is systemic so the Colony benefits regardless of any settlements paid, the Potlatch Soul remains missing. The tactics of legislating against Potlatch and taking the children destroyed the indigenous culture and so justice requires that Churches be legislated while Potlatch is recognized as sovereign.

Affirming Skidegate defeats Coca Cola.

Skidegate continues this meditation on

http://wilpskidegate.blogspot.com/

http://skidegatespotlatch.blogspot.com/

http://skidegatecanoe.blogspot.com/2007/09/liberal-identity-...

inviting proposals for celebrating Potlatch.

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skidegate@shaw.ca

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